“Dad, what else would be like this?”

That’s the question that started me thinking. We were in the midst of bike touring the Natchez Trace Parkway in October 2020. While I prepared for the adventure, I’d read A Way Through the Wilderness: The Natchez Trace and the Civilization of the Southern Frontier by William C. Davis. I wanted to know more about the history and culture of the region and the ancient route we’d be following. And I became especially interested in the Native American aspect of the story.

So it was from that perspective that I briefly pondered my daughter’s question. “You know, for a bike tour,” I said, “I think the Erie Canal would be a lot like this!”

Months later, I launched Google Maps, clicked the cycling icon, and set about drawing a route map for a new adventure. I started in Albany, NY and mapped the Erie Canalway Bike Trail all the way to Buffalo. It seemed a short hop to Cleveland, OH, so I added a second destination: my birthplace Berea, OH. Then a third: my alma mater MSU. And a fourth: Mackinac Island. A fifth: Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. And finally: Grand Marais, MN, site of North House Folk School, from which I took a web-based course in Boat Design last year.

Overview Map – Routes Shown Are Approximate

In a single Google Maps session I had sketched a mammoth, 1500 mile bike tour of the Great Lakes!

And I’ll be riding it this summer, in some sections accompanied by friends and family members. You are cordially invited to join me on this 7-week adventure through this blog.

P.S. My grandchildren know me as Papa E and I designed this map to show them where I would be going on my Big Great Lakes Bike Tour.

Cultural Crossroads

“Could we get an egg with that?” I asked our server as she placed the loaf of freshly baked bread on our table.

My daughter Elisabeth and I had backpacked into Nantahala Outdoor Center the day before and were resuming our southbound hike on the Appalachian Trail that morning. But not before enjoying a hearty breakfast at Slow Joe’s Riverside Café!

Over the past few days we’d steadily honed our camping and cooking skills – seemingly in direct proportion with increasing stamina and appetites – as we made our way southward from the very edge of Great Smoky Mountain National Park. The moment we’d arrived at NOC we’d leaned our backpacks against a tree and fished out a credit card to rent a pair of inflatable kayaks called “duckies”. We’d changed boots for sandals, stashed our packs behind the rental counter and – within minutes – had boarded a bus to take us upriver to the put-in point.

We spent a few hours in sheer delight splashing our way through rapids, taking occasional swims, relaxing in the sparkling sunlight – and letting the river do the work instead of our legs! After we each successfully maneuvered through Class 3 Nantahala Falls, we turned in our boats and crossed the footbridge to Slow Joe’s for a late lunch. That’s when we’d ordered the loaf of bread for pickup the next morning.

“How would you like your egg?” our server wanted to know.

“Raw!” I replied.

Looking concerned she exclaimed, “We can’t serve raw eggs!”

“But we don’t want the egg to eat now!” I explained. “We want it for making French toast tomorrow morning.”

Now she looked genuinely perplexed. “Huh?” was all she could say.

Elisabeth chimed in, “We backpacking the AT and ordered the bread to use for breakfast and lunch tomorrow on the trail.”

“Oh!” exclaimed our server. “Let me find out …”

From our table we could barely hear her end of the conversation.

“They want one egg.”

Something unintelligible …

“Raw – still in the shell.”

Something else unintelligible …

“They’re hikers!”

Moments later she returned and placed a single egg next to our loaf of bread.

“Enjoy your French toast,” she smiled, “and … have a good hike.”

“It would appear,” I speculated, looking at Elisabeth, “in a community of paddlers, hikers are weird!”

Gear Loft

I returned home one evening last week to find my daughter Elisabeth and her fiancé Jude squatting in my driveway with my son Kevin and his wife Lennie. They were in the process of test firing my old MSR Whisperlite backpacking stove and were trying to remember the exact process for priming and then igniting the burner. It seems Kevin and Lennie were introducing friends of theirs to the joys of backpacking. They’d come to my house to borrow equipment from my “gear loft” (actually, Elisabeth was returning a two-person tent she had previously borrowed …).

A gear loft is a rectangle of mesh netting that ties to loops suspended from the top of a tent. It serves as a small storage area for lightweight items like a flashlight – or for drying a damp camp towel or freshly washed socks. I’d dubbed the decked area above my garage my “gear loft” when I realized it was a great place to store tents, sleeping bags, backpacks, bicycle accessories and all the other accoutrements of camping, cycling and canoeing we’d accumulated over three decades of adventures together.

I squatted in the driveway and led an impromptu coaching session on the fine points of operating the collapsible stove – including a safety inspection and some needed adjustments to the venerable burner.

“Dad, when did you get this stove?” Elisabeth asked.

“Hmmm,” I reflected. “I think I bought it for the trek we did on the Nantahala Forest section of the Appalachian Trail.” We both grinned, vividly recalling treasured memories from ten days we’d spent backpacking together in 1990.

Kevin chimed in, “Isn’t this the same stove we used at the Grand Canyon?”

I instantly conjured up a picture of him cooking supper on a South Rim campsite picnic table in 1996 the evening he and his brother Brian and I had just hiked river-to-rim following an overnighter at Bright Angel Creek. We’d gotten a backcountry permit and had packed into the canyon just the day before.

“Yep,” I answered, “and the family camping next to us refilled our fuel bottle and saved us a walk to the store that we didn’t need after that long climb up Bright Angel Trail!”

We lingered on the driveway for a while as a thunderstorm approached – sharing recollections of various backcountry trips I’ve taken over the years with diverse groupings of my children.

I’m very grateful for the terrific adventures we’ve had together – and the ones we’ll have in the future. And I’m very pleased that my children continue to work together as brothers and sister – and with their respective friends and now with their own children – to extend our family tradition of planning and sharing wonderful outdoor adventures.

That’s why my gear loft is always open!

The Groundhog’s Honeymoon

Cheryl and I were married on February 2nd 1968 – Groundhog’s Day.

We were both working and attending classes full-time at Michigan State University, so our honeymoon plans had to be short and simple. A friend suggested Marshall, Michigan as a suitable getaway.

It was late evening when we finally did get away – taking our leave from a modest reception we’d hosted in our new apartment. We set out into a snowstorm, happy and snug in our VW bug. The only thing I remember about the drive is that we got stuck in the snow. We had pulled off the road to switch drivers and when Cheryl eased out the clutch we simply spun-in-place. I got out and pushed.

I recall that we arrived on the outskirts of Marshall around 2:30 a.m. There was a motel. No reservations. No lights on either. I found a trailer out back and knocked on the door. The resident manager took pity on us and checked us into a room. The bed featured something called “magic fingers” so I put a quarter into the slot. With a deep hummm the entire mattress started to vibrate. We giggled together as we literally shook off the cares and chaos of our wedding day (and night).

Morning was well underway when we finally stirred to discover a day that was bright, white and beautiful. We went to a pancake restaurant and ate a hearty breakfast. Then we explored Marshall, Michigan – a quaint and picturesque flashback to nineteenth century small town America.

I don’t recall what else we may have done, but I know we browsed in two or three antique shops. We were looking for something – some special memento of the day, the visit, the starting of our life together. And we were both charmed by a little, green bud vase with the tiny figures of a boy and a girl together amidst intertwined tendrils of ivy.

Then we went home. To study and to work. And to live our life together.

Spring is starting to show already here in Atlanta. The other day we went for a walk and Cheryl picked a daffodil – among the first to bloom this year. It speaks a cheery “good morning” from the little green bud vase.

Honeymoon Bud Vase

One of the first daffodils of spring. Happy anniversary!